CIT Bank, our partner, offers the following benefits with their
No-Penalty CD.
Thanks to community member
psychojinx for sharing this deal.
- $1,000 minimum to open
- No penalty to access funds if needed before maturity
- No opening or maintenance fees
- Daily compounding interest to maximize your earning potential
- Member FDIC
- *See site for details
Slickdeals may be compensated by CIT Bank
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Awful , awful reviews
https://wallethub.com/profile/fir...-13003328i
I spoke to Fidelity about buying T-bills or bonds through them and my recollection is that there are two ways to do it, one involves fees and one doesn't. I figured for the same effort it would take to fully understand the difference, I could probably figure out the Treasury Direct site and I was correct about that.
The idea is to balance risk and get a better return than what my bank offer. UST Direct accomplish that with one stop shopping. You get a better rate and don't have to spend ungodly amounts of time chasing rates at unknown banks all over the country.
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E.g.
Deposit $12,000 into CIT savings, its available for use.
Close 4.8% CD of $15,000 opened May 3rd. CD closure deposits $15,035.46 into savings.
Open 4.9% CD for $27,034.46. New CD earns $3.63 per day.
Savings account has $1 remaining.
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This is not an issue with Ally bank. However, Ally bank has a substantially worse APY at the moment (4.25% vs 4.9%). So you will literally make less money using ally banks better banking UI that offers greater control. If CIT and Ally ever have identical rates, Ally is a much better choice. FWIW I have CDs at both banks.
It's a bit of a pain in the ass, but you can also extend your 11 month no penalty CD duration by closing and reopening the CDs every so often. For example if you have had an 11 month no penalty CD with CIT bank for the last 2 months, you only have 9 months of the rate left. But if you close all of those CDs while they are still offering 4.9%, and then reopen them all, you now have another 11 months. Meaning you will have earned 13 months of the interest guaranteed, vs 11 months if you didn't close and reopen. If you have CDs imo it is worth closing and reopening them all once a month, as long as the rate is still the same or better. Eventually the rate will be worse than what you have secured. By extending it through closing and reopening CDs, granting you extra months, you will make a lot of extra money.
This is not an issue with Ally bank. However, Ally bank has a substantially worse APY at the moment (4.25% vs 4.9%). So you will literally make less money using ally banks better banking UI that offers greater control. If CIT and Ally ever have identical rates, Ally is a much better choice. FWIW I have CDs at both banks.
It's a bit of a pain in the ass, but you can also extend your 11 month no penalty CD duration by closing and reopening the CDs every so often. For example if you have had an 11 month no penalty CD with CIT bank for the last 2 months, you only have 9 months of the rate left. But if you close all of those CDs while they are still offering 4.9%, and then reopen them all, you now have another 11 months. Meaning you will have earned 13 months of the interest guaranteed, vs 11 months if you didn't close and reopen. If you have CDs imo it is worth closing and reopening them all once a month, as long as the rate is still the same or better. Eventually the rate will be worse than what you have secured. By extending it through closing and reopening CDs, granting you extra months, you will make a lot of extra money.
What's your recommendation as an alternative to paying these taxes in this sector?
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I think the benefit here is you're guaranteed a higher rate for 11 months. They could drop the interest on the savings account whether they want. It being a no-penalty account that compounds daily and pays monthly means you could pull it out if rates on other accounts/CDs go up.
One month of interest on $100k in this CD would be $408 (not even accounting for daily compounding). You must buy some fancy pizzas.
You basically have to master calculus and take that task on as a side job to get that extra 10th of a percent as opposed to just tossing it in a high yield savings account.
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have a link?
(I'm new with finance stuff)
Can you explain how you got to this? It looks like you did 100k x 4.9% then divided by 12 months. But is that really how is calculated? If not, what's the best explanation to calculate it?
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