forum threadiconian | Staff posted Sep 05, 2025 03:50 PM
Item 1 of 2
Item 1 of 2
forum threadiconian | Staff posted Sep 05, 2025 03:50 PM
8-Count BONAI Rechargeable Lithium 3000mWh 1.5V AA Batteries w/ Charger $15.50 @ Amazon
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The fact is that 1.5V Li-ion batteries are just not great. Chemistry determines the voltage. Alkaline is 1.5V, NiMH is 1.25V. Li-ion is 3.2 or 3.7V, so they use a buck converter to step it down to 1.5. This (as far as I am aware) means you can't (or shouldn't) use a "standard" NiMH/Li-ion charger. It's why you frequently see these with USB-C ports on them, or they come with their own special charger. Furthermore, buck converters are notorious for phantom drain, so the bad reviews indicating poor battery life make sense.
A more respectable manufacturer might use better converters, but I'm not sure I'd buy any 1.5V Li-ion: https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Lithiu...B0DK2N
If you have a device that simply must have 1.5V and can't use the 1.2-1.3V NiMH, just buy alkalines. Otherwise, use quality NiMH and call it a day.
Anyone using these in their external blink cams ?
You CAN get AA size lithium batteries, but they WLL fry most 'normal' AA driven devices.
The capacity for lithium is often give in mWh, which is why you see that instead of mAh. It is actually 'more' correct, but also confusing.
The buck driver/step down maintains the 1.5v (good), but at the expense of voltage conversion losses, heat production, electronic interference, and increased voltage losses over time (not good).
HOW MUCH of each of those compromises varies WILDLY among the hoard of batteries out there.
Xtar is very good. Hixon is good, Tenavolt is decent, EBL....and the new myriad of 'no name' Chinese batteries making exaggerated claims, not so much.
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Anyone using these in their external blink cams ?
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Currently, I have two sets Tenavolts 1.5 li-ion AA, that I swap in and out of blink cameras, that seem to work-ish. The drain fast on the doorbell cam and a street facing cam. But it was better than throwing tons of money away on disposable lithium ion energizer batteries.
Anyone using these in their external blink cams ?
I switched one of my Blink doorbells to Eneloops last May as an experiment to see how long a good NiMH battery will last. The app immediately reported low-battery but the cam continues to work 4 months later. That doorbell faces the driveway so it averages 2-3 motion events per day. I'm curious to see how long it'll go before it drops its connection due to low power.
Why would they use a converter to "step down"? Does it make them cheaper?Also, when I purchase Li-ion, I should always look for at least 3-2 volts? TIA
A full lithium battery @ 3.0v>4.2v is inside. In order to use it you have to step it down.
You CAN get AA size lithium batteries, but they WLL fry most 'normal' AA driven devices.
The capacity for lithium is often give in mWh, which is why you see that instead of mAh. It is actually 'more' correct, but also confusing.
The buck driver/step down maintains the 1.5v (good), but at the expense of voltage conversion losses, heat production, electronic interference, and increased voltage losses over time (not good).
HOW MUCH of each of those compromises varies WILDLY among the hoard of batteries out there.
Xtar is very good. Hixon is good, Tenavolt is decent, EBL....and the new myriad of 'no name' Chinese batteries making exaggerated claims, not so much.
The fact is that 1.5V Li-ion batteries are just not great. Chemistry determines the voltage. Alkaline is 1.5V, NiMH is 1.25V. Li-ion is 3.2 or 3.7V, so they use a buck converter to step it down to 1.5. This (as far as I am aware) means you can't (or shouldn't) use a "standard" NiMH/Li-ion charger. It's why you frequently see these with USB-C ports on them, or they come with their own special charger. Furthermore, buck converters are notorious for phantom drain, so the bad reviews indicating poor battery life make sense.
A more respectable manufacturer might use better converters, but I'm not sure I'd buy any 1.5V Li-ion: https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Lithiu...B0DK2N
If you have a device that simply must have 1.5V and can't use the 1.2-1.3V NiMH, just buy alkalines. Otherwise, use quality NiMH and call it a day.
If you are using this for audio equipment then be aware that the converter can cause static. I would stuck to high end NiMH if audio equipment is involved.
I'm pretty sure the SK68 is unregulated > it will pull MORE CURRENT with the higher voltage. You get a brighter light, but more heat and shorter use. An NiMh drops to 1.2v quite soon so it may not heat up.
An alkaline simply cannot deliver high current so it also doesn't heat up.
I suspect ANY somewhat decent 1.5v lithium will produce the same result in that light.
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