Amazon has
Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit (G191700) on sale for
$17.42.
Shipping is free with Prime or $35+ orders.
Walmart also has
Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit (G191700) on sale for
$17.42. Select store pickup where available. Otherwise,
shipping is free with Walmart+ (
Free 30-Day Trial Here) or orders $35 or more.
Thanks to Community Member
milkmee6 for finding this deal.
Features:
- Quickly and easily removes bonded surface contaminants like paint overspray, industrial fallout, tree sap mist, road tar and more
- After using clay, wipe with Supreme Shine Microfiber Towel to restore a smooth, glassy finish
- Wax glides on easily and provides longer-lasting protection after claying
- Non-abrasive clay bar works safely on any paint finish including clear coats
- Includes three 60 gram premium clay bars, 16 oz Quik Detailer Mist & Wipe, and a Supreme Shine Microfiber Towel
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The former... as often as you feel like it although it's not necessary to do more than maybe once per year (at most).
How long does it last? I think I used my last one on three cars before I decided it was too gunked up to bother but it depends on how much contamination and how well you took care of the car before using the clay bar. If you keep it clean and waxed, you're less likely to need a clay bar but if it's been neglected or you just have a lot of gunk on your roads, then you'll feel the grit sticking even after you wash your car.
Either way, it's case by case. I used it on older cars that already had well worn paint. If I were running a detailing business I'd use a new bar with every car (or only reuse it on my own car).
As for what can you do about new rust by your wheels, I'd need to actually see what you have going on. Hate to say it but there's a good chance that it's already too late to do anything but wait until your fender and/or quarter panel rust out to the point that they need replaced or doing a sloppy repair with something like Bondo. Rust can't always be fixed.
That said, you can scrape away what's loose. You can convert iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate with products like Naval Jelly, various rust convertors on the market with phosphoric acid as an ingredient. Even vinegar (acetic acid) will help a bit but it's a different chemical reaction. There are also products like Evaporust which use another chemical approach but that one requires being able to soak a piece of rusted metal overnight.
You can paint exposed metel with a rusty metal primer (typically has zinc as an ingredient) but if you don't knock away what's loose first then you just create cavities that trap moisture and lead to more rust. Smaller exposed metal, paint chips and what not... model paint, nail polish, matched touch up paint from the car manufacturer.. all those will stop the rust from growing (again, granted you eliminate any areas that trap moisture).
The moisture trapping thing is what makes it hard to deal with wheel wells.. lots of plastic cladding, mud flaps, trim, etc. that tend to trap moisture and cause rust. Best thing to do is keep it clean in the first place, hose it out during winter months when there's salt and other chemicals on the road. Spray the affected area with an under-body protectant like FluidFilm before you have rust to begin with. You can add fluid film after the fact and still get some level of protection. But again, without actually seeing what you are working with, I can only give you a broad general recommendation.
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The former... as often as you feel like it although it's not necessary to do more than maybe once per year (at most).
How long does it last? I think I used my last one on three cars before I decided it was too gunked up to bother but it depends on how much contamination and how well you took care of the car before using the clay bar. If you keep it clean and waxed, you're less likely to need a clay bar but if it's been neglected or you just have a lot of gunk on your roads, then you'll feel the grit sticking even after you wash your car.
Either way, it's case by case. I used it on older cars that already had well worn paint. If I were running a detailing business I'd use a new bar with every car (or only reuse it on my own car).
The former... as often as you feel like it although it's not necessary to do more than maybe once per year (at most).
How long does it last? I think I used my last one on three cars before I decided it was too gunked up to bother but it depends on how much contamination and how well you took care of the car before using the clay bar. If you keep it clean and waxed, you're less likely to need a clay bar but if it's been neglected or you just have a lot of gunk on your roads, then you'll feel the grit sticking even after you wash your car.
Either way, it's case by case. I used it on older cars that already had well worn paint. If I were running a detailing business I'd use a new bar with every car (or only reuse it on my own car).
Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank NervousPiranha982
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I try to clay and wax at least twice a year but more like probably 3x every 2 years lol.
Cant beat that first few days after a clay and wax where your paint looks and feels like glass. After that you get over it lol.
I got the Speed clay but never got around to using. I might try it this next time.
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I like these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/
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Our community has rated this post as helpful. If you agree, why not thank 78StayUpLate
As for what can you do about new rust by your wheels, I'd need to actually see what you have going on. Hate to say it but there's a good chance that it's already too late to do anything but wait until your fender and/or quarter panel rust out to the point that they need replaced or doing a sloppy repair with something like Bondo. Rust can't always be fixed.
That said, you can scrape away what's loose. You can convert iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate with products like Naval Jelly, various rust convertors on the market with phosphoric acid as an ingredient. Even vinegar (acetic acid) will help a bit but it's a different chemical reaction. There are also products like Evaporust which use another chemical approach but that one requires being able to soak a piece of rusted metal overnight.
You can paint exposed metel with a rusty metal primer (typically has zinc as an ingredient) but if you don't knock away what's loose first then you just create cavities that trap moisture and lead to more rust. Smaller exposed metal, paint chips and what not... model paint, nail polish, matched touch up paint from the car manufacturer.. all those will stop the rust from growing (again, granted you eliminate any areas that trap moisture).
The moisture trapping thing is what makes it hard to deal with wheel wells.. lots of plastic cladding, mud flaps, trim, etc. that tend to trap moisture and cause rust. Best thing to do is keep it clean in the first place, hose it out during winter months when there's salt and other chemicals on the road. Spray the affected area with an under-body protectant like FluidFilm before you have rust to begin with. You can add fluid film after the fact and still get some level of protection. But again, without actually seeing what you are working with, I can only give you a broad general recommendation.
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